Preview: Los Llanos Orientals and What's to Come

Hey everyone, this is going to be short because the last blog entry I attempted to write didn't save correctly and my internet briefly went out. It has happened to all of us and it is frustrating because all of us hate wasting time. Sorry but this is the shorter (a little bit frustrated) version:

I just got back from an incredible trip over the past few weeks in the llanos orientales (eastern plains) of Colombia. Diego and I (check out his website at: http://dsblox.com/) have proudly hitchhiked over 960km/600mi across this region of the country (100% of our time in Meta done completely by hitchhiking). We have tons of photos to share with you and the rest of the world but we have a bit of a dilemma, over 80% of our photos are on different computers throughout the llanos. You see, before I went to Puerto Berrío, Antioquia to celebrate Christmas with my girlfriend I realized that I had left my 4GB memory card in my computer. Without sufficient funds I had to settle for a 1GB memory card which sounds good until one takes hundreds of photos at 8mega-pixels and video; it fills up fast. Therefore, Diego and I had to upload them onto other peoples' computers and put them into Diego's dropbox (basically an online hard-drive). We are still waiting for all of the photos to upload.

So hang tight everyone, it very well could be a few weeks until a few months before I receive all of the photos we had taken of this forgotten region of Colombia. Remember that blogs regarding Puerto Berrío, Ibagué, our trip through the llanos (Meta, Casanare, & Arauca), and working in the llanos will be posted in the upcoming weeks.

Here is the route we took over the course of one month (click to enlarge photo):

(BLACK = Diego & I / BLUE = Me solo)

In other updates, Diego and I are talking about redesigning this blog to give it a cleaner look and create my own website. I have a lot of thinking to do because I don't even know why I have a blog in the first place so imagine how I would feel having a website to deal with (it costs money). If the website paid for itself maybe.

That is all for now, I have a lot of work, studying and visa renewal to take care of in the upcoming weeks. Take care and please keep in touch.

Un abrazo de oso (a bear hug)

Attentively,

-Kevin Post

Colombian Hitchhiking Part II - Manizales & Villamaria

(Click on photos to enlarge them)

Just like the first Colombian Hitchhiking blog entry, this trip (end of April 2009) took place when I didn't have a blog and didn't care too much about keeping a journal regarding my thoughts, funny quotes and a little bit about my random life in and around Colombia. I regret not writing these series of little moments while they were still fresh. In the upcoming months I will have tiny composition notebooks to jot down the good times while they remain fresh in the mind with me at all times and I have hopes of taking a photography class to improve my picture taking abilities which will then greatly improve this blog. However, I am not the kind of person that likes traveling with an elaborate camera with several types of lenses; too much weight, too much money and too much unwanted attention. I would like a camera that is compact, very durable, used (there is no way I could afford a new one), and takes good shots...recommendations are more than welcome.

Unlike the last time I went hitchhiking, this was not planned. My hostess Manisha (while she was living and teaching in Manizales) and I decided to head south to the municipality of Villamaria to get away from the urbanization of Manizales and venture into a more rural setting. Near by is the active volcano Nevado del Ruiz at 5,321m (17,388ft) above sea level and can easily be seen from Manizales on a sunny day. We took urban transportation as far as we could southeast from the city of Manizales and began walking past farms and friendly campesinos (peasant farmers). It was quite coincidental but a driver stopped with his pickup truck to ask if we needed a ride only a few minutes after telling Manisha how easy it was for me to hitchhike in Colombia without even holding out my thumb.

We expected a few hours walk along the rural coffee farms of Caldas but ended up hitchhiking to wherever the driver wanted to go.

We were excited to go as far as possible but Manisha and I were completely unprepared for such an exciting trip. The two guys in the back of the pickup truck (sorry for not remembering their names) were very nice guys from Medellín whom had great recommendations for us regarding future travels off the beaten path in Colombia. Sadly, again I forgot their recommendations because I have conversations like this all of the time.

The driver was drinking Caldense rum (a rum from this region which is considered by experts to be some of the best rum in the world), blaring reggaetón, and driving at full speed along unpaved country roads which at times sent us flying in the air and slamming against the hard truck bed. Eventually our hour long drive with this crew came to an end as they had planned to drive further up to the Parque Nacional Los Nevados (Los Nevados National Park) which was too high of an elevation (we didn't have enough cold weather clothing to handle the snow) and too expensive for Manisha and I to enter (foreigners have to pay a minimum of about 80,000 Colombian pesos, which is roughly $40USD, just to enter the park). They dropped us off at a lodge which was convenient because they served typical food from the Paísa region filled with protein and calories we needed. It was a bit over priced but at +4,000 meters (+13,000 feet) above sea-level I can't complain. The lodge was lovely and had a very Alps feel to it but we couldn't afford to stay and we only had a few hours of light to guide us down the mountain back to civilization. We asked if it would be easy to catch a ride back but we were quickly informed by Colombian tourists and staff that it would be highly unlikely. We began walking at a fast pace while enjoying Caldas's beauty.

Along the road Manisha and I stopped to enjoy the warmth which the natural volcanic hot springs provided.

Enjoying the company of cows.

Hiking without the intention of hiking is fun but I know from experience that not being prepared and getting lost usually ends in hunger, hypothermia, injures and near death experiences in these parts. Although enjoying the nature and our conversations we were in a hurry to get back quickly before nightfall.

I definitely see myself coming back here for some light mountaineering as well as some remote rock-climbing. The down side to climbing in Colombia is its tropical climate and heavy rainfall, the upside is that there are thousands of routes that have never been attempted. I will attempt these routes next time during the brief dry season in Caldas.

The sunsets, we're in a hurry but still manage to appreciate the beauty of southeastern Caldas.

.........

Night joins us on our walk leaving us walking in complete darkness. Manisha and I lock arms so that we don't trip or lose each other. Several hours pass and we eventually see a car parked with two lovers inside listing to classic salsa rhythms as well as each other's heavy breathing; we leave them alone but at least we know that civilization is near and that the temperature rises as we decrease in elevation. We didn't dare to knock on the window asking for a ride, because one I didn't want to scare them in the middle of love making and two if I were that guy I would have been pissed at the guy who killed the spark of sexual desire of my sex partner. We don't have any more water which makes us chose our words wisely and of importance. After many hours we begin to see farms in the distance, we feel confident that we'll make it back home. A car drives up and we stop the car asking for a ride late at night while the driver and the passenger look at each other with mutual feelings of uneasiness. We ride in the way back to another bumpy ride into Manizales. They drop us off outside a hospital and a grocery store where we buy supplies and take a bus ride back home.

We celebrated with a group of friends, ate lots of much needed calories, played twister and talked a little bit about our little day trip. Manisha couldn't believe the energy I had the entire day.

Great times always in Manizales especially when the weather is nice. Be sure to stop by and explore the most mountainous department of Colombia: Caldas.

Blog coming soon regarding Couchsurfing in Manizales.

Colombian Hitchhiking Part I - Sabaneta, Amagá, Fredonia, Venecia & Bolombólo

(click to enlarge photos)

I completely forgot that I had these photos from a hitchhiking trip here in Antioquia during Semana Santa (Holy Week) in April. Sadly I didn't keep a journal log of this trip so I am afraid that there is a lot I don't remember and as a result this entry is going to be briefer than I had hoped. Nevertheless, I hope to inspire some of you to take some time to hitchhike is this wonderful country with no itinerary or specific destination...just go for it! If you have any questions regarding hitchhiking in Colombia feel free to ask.

I started the trip from southern tip of Sabaneta and caught a ride from a truck driver named Juan Carlos (there are thousands of Juan Carloses in Medellín alone) to Amagá. Very nice guy who couldn't believe that I wasn't with my family during Semana Santa. He treated me to an empanada while in Amagá which was very nice of him. I found very cheap accommodation that night in Amagá after participating with the celebrations (which was basically a six hour church service). I didn't have my camera with me because this was a very religious occasion and I didn't want to offend anyone; sorry for not having any photos from Amagá.



Before I headed out on the open road for four days of hitchhiking wherever the drivers were heading during Semana Santa (Holy Week) here were some of the supplies I had brought with me. The sign says, "If you would be so kind" in hopes to make drivers feel sorry for me and give me a lift. Luckily for me it turned out that the sign wasn't necessary in order to be picked up constantly by drivers. My list of supplies and why I brought them:

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GEAR REVIEW/PACK LIST

-35 liter Gregory Z-35 backpack. I traveled throughout Turkey, Iraq and Syria for two months with this pack. It is light weight, is a roll top, breathable, and has a good amount of lumbar support. I highly recommend Gregory packs for their support and durability. However, always buy a pack that fits perfectly, is best for your needs and is able to fit all of your gear (the backpack should be the last thing you buy before going on a trip).

-Vanilla soy milk powder.

-Assorted oatmeal bars.

-Arc'teryx Palisade Pant.

-Bathing suit. This actually wasn't and still isn't a necessary item, I just swim in my ExOfficio boxers which by the way are AMAZING. I warn you, once you buy ExOfficio boxers/briefs it is incredibly difficult to go back to cotton underwear.

-Sun glasses. I didn't use these either. Sun glasses are a must during mountaineering pursuits or while on the water but other than that I've never been a sun glasses kind of guy. Just make sure while purchasing sun glasses that they are polarized.

-The last of my couchsurfing cards. Sometimes we (couchsurfers) meet people along our journeys and think to ourselves, "Man, this guy is what couchsurfing is about". Sometimes we just have to spread the good word.

-Cell phone.

-Adventure Medical Kit.

-Regular glasses in order to see the mountains more clearly.

-Black Diamond Cosmo headlamp.

-At least 3 liters of drinkable water in case of little luck hitching a ride.

-Pack cover to protect pack and gear from getting wet or damaged.

-Quick drying synthetic towel.

-Golite windstopper jacket.

-Western Mountaineering ultralite -7°C/20°F down sleeping bag. Luxury baby. Trust me on this one, as soon as you sleep in one of their sleeping bags you're hooked.

-MSR Hubba Hubba tent. This is a wonderful tent but I would have been happier with the one person version the Hubba. A two person tent is a bit much when traveling alone (which is usually the case).

-And of course a synthetic t-shirt that is breathable and quick drying, jeans if invited to dinner or a special event with hosts, and a camera so that your parents don't scream at you for not taking enough photos.

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The road somewhere between Amagá and Fredonia in the department of Antioquia. Not the best place to hitchhike due to lack of shoulder space for the driver to pull over; a beautiful area nonetheless.








Although sporadic showers bombarded me from time to time I am happy that no one gave me a lift for the first two hours of my walk from Amagá to Fredonia. The walk was stunning with mountains, very Paísa fincas (Paísa farm houses) and coffee farms in every direction. Several minutes after taking these photos a guy from Medellín gave me a lift in his 4x4 jeep from the 1960's through "roads" that eventually led to Fredonia. He even invited me to some beer which I happily drank even though I don't care too much for beer.

From Fredonia I was instantly offered a ride from a girl that seemed to be quite interested in me. She gave me her contact information and seemed quite eager to go out sometime to dance salsa and vallenato with me in Medellín. I still have her number and might actually call her sometime. Nevertheless, she dropped me off in the middle of nowhere and didn't even invite me to her finca (farm house) for some arepa. Luckily ten minutes after dropping me off a family picked me up whom we very nice people and invited me for dinner in Venecia. The trout was amazing as well as free which made it taste better I suppose! Sadly they didn't give me their contact information and went on their way. Venencia is a lovely Antioqueño town surrounded by amazing trekking opportunities but during the peak of tourism season (Holy Week) I couldn't find free accommodation nor a place to camp and it was getting late.

It's funny because my sign was absolutely useless except when bombarded with rain it helped shield some of the rain. Being an obvious foreigner with red-blondish hair greatly helps in regards to Colombian hitchhiking to the point where I don't even stick out my thumb to get rides. Here is a typical dialogue (more or less) between me and drivers in Antioquia:

A secondary road in Antioquia with a bright blue pack-cover alone with a good walking pace while enjoying the beautiful scenery. Every time I hear a vehicle behind me I turn around and make eye contact with the driver in attempts to show the driver that I am in need of a ride and have no intentions of robbing the guy. The driver pulls up next to me and the dialogue begins with a heavy dose of the Paísa (or Antioqueño) dialect of Latin American Spanish.

-Driver: "Oíga mono, venga pues!" (Hey white person, come here)
-Myself: "Hola muy buenas tardes señor ¿cómo le va?" (Hello good afternoon sir, how's it going?)
-Driver: "¿Bien o no? Gracias ¿y vos?" (I'm good thanks and you?)
-Myself: "Muy bien gracias. Señor, ¿me puede llevar?" (Very good thank you. Sir, can you give me a ride?)
-Driver: "Claro pues, bien pueda mijo" (Of course, you're more than welcome my son)
-Myself: "¡Esoooo! Listo pues! Gracias!" (Yessssss! Ready! Gracias!)
-Driver: "Con mucho gusto" (My pleasure)

Most driver that pick up hitchhikers are either incredibly curious about the foreigners' journeys or are just incredibly lonely and need someone to talk to. During vacation time in Colombia (especially Holy Week) drivers will often pick up hitchhikers out of pity for that hitchhiker's lack of family. Family is INCREDIBLY important throughout Colombian cultures.



On the road from Venecia to Bolombólo. The girl that picked me up in Fredonia had told me about a town called Bolombólo which isn't on any map I've seen. She told me that I had to go there so I took her word for it and began walking from Venecia to Bolombólo. The light soon faded and so did the small amount of day traffic. When a car did pass by once an hour at most they weren't too crazy about picking up a hitchhiker at night; I don't blame them honestly. Long story short, I spent the next five hours walking down an empty road where anything could have happened. There were times when I literally couldn't see anything which was both a relief from light pollution but also a bit sketchy. These photos were taken with a flash and still nothing can be seen. My head lamp came in handy. Finally I arrived in Bolombólo and was greatly disappointed to find nothing more than a truck stop with a population of roughly 13,000. If it weren't for the Semana Santa (Holy Week) I probably would have been mugged. After an entire day of hitchhiking and many many hours of walking I was ready for bed. Bolombólo is at a much lower elevation so as a result it was a good 27°C/80°F at night. I slept in the cheapest accommodation I could find which was 10,000 Colombian pesos a night (roughly $5 at the time) which was double the normal price (normally 5,000 Colombian pesos a night or $2.50) due to Holy Week celebrations. I slept incredibly well in this truck stop prostitute infested motel.

The next morning I woke up at 6am and walked around a little bit. Sadly my hitchhiking trip came to an end because I literally had about 8,000 Colombian pesos ($4) on me and had some homework to finish. I couldn't risk running out of money because I didn't have my debit card with me and it is always a good idea to have some money just in case of an emergency. So after about 45 minutes waiting for a ride I finally came across a bus that took me to Sabaneta for 6,000 pesos ($3). Sadly my original four day plan was only three days.

I greatly look forward to going back to Amagá, Fredonia, Venecia, and Bolombólo to spend more time exploring these areas and as a result write more about them.

By the way, I am currently in the process of writing and uploading photos for my next blog entry "Colombian Hitchhiking Part II - Manizales"

I hope that you guys enjoyed this entry and were encouraged to hitchhike as well as support the smaller towns of Colombia. Take care.

Attn,

-Kevin Post